The history of the kimono began at the imperial court in the Heian period. The most significant literary work of the time is the novel Genji Monogatari, and its illustrated scroll shows the kimono of the Heian period – jūnihitoe. In addition to being the predecessor of kimono, jūnihitoe is important for the history of Japanese fashion as an expression of the connection between nature and Japanese people. The numerous layers of fabric that made up the jūnihitoe represented Japanese seasonal plants, and special attention was paid to the changes of the seasons and the color combinations associated with them. Under the layers of jūnihitoe aristocracy also wore a cloak called kosode. In the following periods, complex jūnihitoe was replaced by kosode, which became the closest connection to today's kimono form. The Edo period kosode became lavishly decorated, longer, made of thinner fabric, worn with fewer layers, with sleeves which separated from the body over time until it became similar in shape to the modern kimono. The fashion of the Edo period was marked by the government's sumptuary laws, which forbade the middle class from purchasing expensive clothing that previously only the aristocracy could afford. The purpose of these laws was to preserve social order, that is, class differences marked by the price and quality of the clothing. In the Meiji period, the Western influence on the Japanese traditional clothing began. The Emperor and Empress were the first to replace the traditional kimono for the Western suit and dress, and soon the citizens began to wear kimono with Western fashion accessories. With the arrival of a sewing machine in Japan, women began to make Western clothing for their children, even though most women of the period stayed clad in kimono. Under an increasing influence of Western culture and customs, the tradition of wearing kimono slowly began to disappear. After the Second World War, the Japanese almost completely replaced the kimono as daily wear for Western clothing. Because of its convenience, faster production and cheaper prices Western clothing was more practical in post-war Japan, and kimono has become reserved for special occasions. The renewed desire to wear kimono, especially among young people, has been influenced by growing Western interest in Japanese pop culture. Today, wearing kimono in everyday life allows young people to create their own style and express their creativity, as well as to connect with the past. The social roles of men and women in Japan can be expressed through the kimono, observed in its role in the past and present. In the Meiji period, as representatives of modern nation, men exchanged their kimonos for Western suits at the same time as the Emperor did. On the other hand, women still stayed in kimono for years. The reason why women were not encouraged to wear western dresses was related to women's societal roles at the time. In the Meiji period, a woman wearing kimono represented the perfect traditional woman – as a wife, mother and housewife, she was a model of femininity. Although only a small number of women still wear kimono in everyday life, the image of a woman in a kimono is a globally recognizable symbol of Japan. The desire to portray girls as ideals of tradition is still present in Japanese society, especially during traditional celebrations. For example, during the Coming of Age celebration, young men are seen wearing western suits, while girls are dressed in traditional silk kimono. This difference in the clothing of young people can be related to the societal roles of men and women in the Meiji period: men in suits are still symbols of progress, while women in kimono are still symbols of tradition. One cannot talk about Japanese fashion without mentioning Japan's street fashion, with its trends becoming more and more present even in the West. Just a few of the Japanese street fashion styles include kawaii, a culture characterized by pastel colors, lace, bows, ruffles, stuffed toys, and love for all things cute; Lolita, a style reminiscent of Victorian dolls; and Gyaru (with a male version Gyaru-o), a style recognized by tanned skin, long fake nails, dramatic makeup, colored contact lenses, big hair and short clothes. What connects each of the presented subcultures is a rebellion against tradition. By wearing clothing that sets them apart from the rest of the society, as well as by creating their own ideals, the members of these subcultures send a clear message about their rejection of traditional social values. Apart from street fashion, Japan is also known for high fashion, owing to designers Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, who shaped the Japanese avant-garde fashion. Their collections changed the standards for Western high fashion and are evidence of the influence of Japanese fashion on the global fashion industry. However, Japan's influence on Western fashion began as early as in the nineteenth century. European merchants who visited Japan would publish books describing Japanese customs, society and art, thus making people interested in Japan. Soon, Western dresses inspired by Japanese silhouette, designs and fabric became very popular, and today Tokyo is recognized as a fashion capital, along with Paris, Milan and New York.